Showing posts with label Food Waste. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Food Waste. Show all posts

Wednesday, November 6, 2013

Apple Peel Twigs



I've been spending some time lately trying to conquer a few kitchen anxieties in an effort to become more proficient in my cooking skills.  Peeling things and pastry-making, specifically.  I'll address the pastry business if I manage to crack the code on that niggly awful process (which yields nearly 16 million google hits for good reason), but until then, peels!

I'll be the first to admit that I'm the laziest prep cook in existence and if there's a step in a recipe that even remotely seems like it doesn't need to be done, it's just not going to happen in the Trash Salad kitchen.  There's always a Law and Order SVU marathon on, you see, and that is always going to take precedence.  As a result of this cooking philosophy, I have peeled apples maybe twice in my life and really never had a problem with chunky applesauce or brown betties with an extra special texture to them.  But autumn is a time for productivity and personal challenge, and thus I decided to go the whole nine with desserts while also learning how to peel without looking like a thumbless orangutan.

Glory be, if I didn't discover the most outrageously delicious, easy to make, and healthy snack food item made from scraps in the process.  Apple peels, tossed with cinnamon sugar and dehydrated at low temperature.  So simple sounding, they have a light crunchiness with a sweet and spicy tart flavor that is impossibly addicting.  The entire batch was inhaled in less than 24 hours (by me).

Just toss them in the oven while you're waiting on your pie dough to transform from a chilled blob into magic unicorn crust that should flake to infinity.



Apple Peel Twigs

Adapted from Sassy Radish via MStew
Total time: 2.5 hours, active time 2 minutes

  • Peels from 6-8 apples
  • 2 tablespoons granulated sugar
  • 1/4 teaspoon cinnamon
  • pinch of salt (optional)
  • pinch of nutmeg (optional)
Preheat oven to 250F/120C.  Mix sugar, cinnamon, salt, and nutmeg in a large bowl.  Toss apple peels with the spiced sugar, using a few drops of water if more moisture is needed to help the sugar stick.

Spread peels out in a single layer on a parchment-lined baking sheet.  Bake for 2 hours, rotating halfway through until peels are curled and crisp.  Let cool in the oven for another 30 minutes to dry before serving.


Sunday, December 2, 2012

Sandy: Executions of Refrigerator Contingency Plans and Lessons Learned



So we're now a month out from megaultradestructostorm Sandy kicking the tri-state area in the teeth, leaving a blood-spattered trail of incisors and vomit in her drug-addled wake.  Hopefully you expose yourself to some media other than the Bravo and E! networks and are not learning about this for the first time here.

Am I going to talk about the post-surge destruction, public health hazards, and the struggle to rebuild?  The flooding and devastation that disproportionately affected the elderly and low-income residents in my town?  Not even going to mention the creative generosity of area volunteers that have rallied to assist those in need.

Nay, the issue that has prompted me to emerge my half-year Trash Salad sabbatical is that of resourcefulness and preservation in a time of crisis.  By which I mean, what do to when your fridge loses power, and how to prepare for this in the future.

To refamiliarize you with the Sandy timetable, the storm rolled in on Monday afternoon, taking out the nonsensically above-ground power lines by Monday night.  As many who sat back with rolled-eyes during Irene, I had assumed that either I wouldn't lose power at all, or in the worst-case scenario, that being connected to the same grid as the main commercial district in town would make for a limited powerless period.  Cut to five days later: I'm freezing in the dark, compulsively eating down the fridge, and am otherwise devolving into a late-1940s Howard Hughes situation.

Living on the fifth floor outside of a flood-zone, I was very very lucky.  Some folks lost everything, including loved ones.  But also heart-breaking?  The people who were totally unprepared for a power loss, not knowing how to feed themselves without delivery.com at their beck and call.  Sure the clock starts running when the power goes out, but does that mean immediately throwing everything out?  Absolutely not.  You can survive and thrive on decaying food, if you approach it strategically.

So behold, an overview of how I lasted through week without spending a single dollar in the dark and post-apocalyptic wasteland (before I lost my mind and hopped a bus out of town):


Friday:  A non-work day.  Frankenstorm is a mere buzzword at this stage.  Access to a car on an empty stomach begets a $200 trip to Trader Joes, including several bags full of frozen food.  You may have guessed that this will soon reveal itself as an unwise move.

Saturday/Sunday: Standard weekend of costume party booze cruise coupled with a lazy SVU-marathon hangover day.  Work for Monday is called off.  I make hurricane preparations by organizing scented candles, locating matches, and grinding up all of my coffee beans.  Priorities!

Monday:  Stuck at home with a city-wide curfew, I determine the best way to cope with being cooped up is via four thousand hours of Netflix and elaborate kitchen projects.  Down all of my yogurt and milk by way of chocolate granola.  Focus on the current MVP of the freezer, an organic chicken (flat roast day!), but an initial power loss around 3pm before it properly defrosts foils the plan.  Power comes on briefly and we take advantage of it to organize a responsible vegetable lasagna and salad.  Spend the rest of the evening listening to jock jams with vodka sodas by candle-light while the storm rages on.

Tuesday: Alone, day 2 sans electricity, and now without any cell phone service (ugh AT&T).  I sleep until, who knows, 11?  Thank god for gas stoves and the french press.  Reality sets in, and I sit down and prioritize the fridge situation: the super perishables include the chicken of gold, turkey burgers, random bits of meat and veg, frozen pork dumplings, almond milk, mozzarella, and hummus.  Breakfast of turkey burgers and salad (there is no space for carbs in a situation this dire).  I go for a long walk to scope out the situation.  It's WAY worse than anticipated.


The chicken must be dealt with.  I sear it in a cast iron pan and pop it in a pot on top of chunked up onions, parsnips, carrots, and cabbage and leave it on low for an hour or two.  Cooking a chicken in by candle light is challenging to say the least.  I feast on my chicken and chicken-fat vegetables and leftover salad with hummus, listen to WNYC, and contemplate how not dissimmilar the situation is to a zombie apocalypse

Wednesday:  Still no power, and man it's starting to get cold.  Breakfast of more chicken and chicken-fat veg that sat out on the counter overnight so I wouldn't have to open the fridge.  Think I'll go out and get power and internet at Starbucks, but get word that the ENTIRE city and even bordering areas are under powerless lockdown.  Question the nature of existence in this electrically-deficient wasteland. 

But then I get a surprise visitor!  And my first reaction is disappointment that he has brought a cooler containing the super perishables from his own fridge: jersey shore crab cakes, edamame, a thousand veggie burgers, and half a pizza.  Oy!  We experiment with cooking a mammoth crab cake in a cast iron pan.  It become a weirdly dense crabby pancake.  A delicious late lunch with sides of chicken and pizza.  It occurs to me that the survival diet is rather calorically dense, but that I will need those calories to outrun the zombies.

We go for another long walk to survey the scene, the only available activity these days.  The sewage water does not appear to have receded at all from the day before.  Discover that we can get cell service near the water, so use my remaining cell battery for a facebook life update (priorities).  We cook the remaining crab cakes back at camp, and I make a giant pot of stock with the chicken carcass.  Sides of veggie burger/edamame stirfry surprise.  Hey, it's halloween!  We celebrate by more WNYC and whiskey by candle light.

Thursday: This morning the building has started to develop a terrible smell from the rotting food in the restaurant refrigerators in the basement.  Apparently they had a large stock of seafood.  Ugh.  Haven't seen or heard a soul in the building all week.  Where does everyone go when there is no transportation infrastructure or way to get gas?  Fancy breakfast today of crab cake hash topped with an egg and mozzarella.  Second breakfast of dumplings.  I stop worrying about opening the fridge since all coolness is completely gone.  But what if we're not able to finish the crab cakes before they go off?  This thought causes an inordinate amount of stress.  I'm absolutely losing it.

On the daily long walk, I encounter several sets of family members and get an answer to my earlier question: mom and dad have come to fetch all the babies.  Piles of garbage have started to accumulate everywhere as folks start cleaning out their businesses and ground floor apartments.  The National Guard is rolling past rescuing folks from building still surrounded by sewage water.  I have conflicting emotions of feeling incredibly lucky and absolutely losing my mind.  Power appears to have come back along two blocks to the northwest so I head over to join a "juicing party": a new social experience of shared power outside the homes of generous individuals who extended power strips for the wandering refugees.  I catch up on my correspondence for a few hours before my fingers freeze up and I am forced back into my dark and stinky garbage apartment.

The cooking by candle-light project this evening is about three gallons of Meat Trash Soup which consists of everything left in the fridge (soy chorizo, kielbasa, rashers of bacon, chicken carcass stock, frozen spinach bricks, cabbage) topped with cod fillets.  The fish was seriously questionable, but I lemoned and garlicked the hell out of it until the funk was gone.

Friday: Woke up with some serious depression upon realizing nothing had changed, yet pleasantly surprised to have not become sick from the fish the night before.  Leftover trash hash for breakfast featuring the rest of the crab cakes, veggie burgers, a pepper, and a very sad attempt at pan-fried tater tots that were super soft and greasy.  I think the failed tot experiment was the final straw in whatever remaining sanity I had at this point, because shortly after breakfast I heard the buses running outside and promptly formulated a plan to pack everything up and get the hell out of dodge.

Some seriously sad tots.
I scooped up and salvaged: unopened packages of smoked salmon, goat cheese, tempeh, and pre-cooked sausages, several meatless frozen pizzas (that were surprisingly just fine when baked up!), hard cheese, a pound or two butter, and the remainder of the meat soup.  Did I feel like a foolish bag lady schlepping all of that on the bus? Sure, but I'm positive the stress of leaving it would have been worse. 

For some lessons learned:

1) Know your utility situation.  Gas stoves and hot water heaters seem way more robust than anything involving electricity, but only if you know how to light a burner without an electric starter.  Is this knowledge that is going the way of the stick shift?  Similarly, go get yourself a french press if you don't have one already.  Even if you don't have a gas stove you can still make cold-brewed coffee happen.

2) Take a picture or make a list of your fridge contents and make a plan.  I prioritized with an algorithm of what was most expensive/what was going to go bad first.  Things loaded with preservatives were just fine, even five days later.  As a consequence I only had to chuck maybe $10-15 total of frozen fruit, a couple of waffles with the the structural integrity of pudding, a spinach pie, and a wedge of brie that was a million years old.  Under normal circumstances the brie would have been fair game, but I was so cheese/saturated fatted out by that stage that I couldn't even look at it by the end of the week.

3) Get to know your neighbors - more specifically, their skill sets and resources.  It's much easier to knock on a door and ask for help (even help eating down the fridge) if you've at least introduced yourself ahead of time.  Further to this, I need to maybe move to a place where the community has an average age above 22 and everyone doesn't skip town the second they lose power.

So there we have it.  If I could do it again, I would do it all the same, but will for the future always maintain a larger stockpile of alcohol on hand.  Whiskey never goes bad!

Tuesday, August 16, 2011

Thoughts on the NYTimes Turning Trash into Dinner

Image via NYTimes

The New York Times's latest feature on "stem-to-root" style eating was forwarded to me by several people last week and, indeed, it was right up my alley.  While I love that this topic is trendy enough to be given a lead in the Style section, it was odd and kind of off-putting that it was framed as such a novel concept (wait, what? you can eat the skins on potatoes?!).  But there were definitely both interesting and controversial ideas buried within the article, which I will now break down in the same manner as fellow intellectuals at The Frisky approach their in-depth analysis of The Bachelorette.

The Good
  • New ideas for preserves: asparagus end sweet relish, pickled nasturium leaves.  I might also be inspired to finally try pickled watermelon rind, since I've been put off by the labor intensiveness of it.
  • Broccoli stalk salad: outer peel removed, shaved raw with Parmigiano-Reggiano, and lemon zest.  I tried this, it's actually really good and tastes very similar to this.

The Bad
  • The target audience for this article:  poor poor urbanites who, in a misguided attempt at frugality, are just overwhelmed by their CSA shares.  "The kind of home cooks who make the extra effort to go the farmers’ market and support local agriculture, but whose schedules and lack of skills cause them to feel stressed by a refrigerator full of raw ingredients."  Yes, having a refrigerator full of food is incredibly stressful. We should be so lucky!
  • General Greenmarket wankery. "You feel more invested in the carrots you buy from the farmer than the ones you buy at Key Food. You feel sentimental about them, you have more respect for them.” Completely counterintuitive. Shouldn't you go to more of an effort to not waste imported goods and food that's traveled a long distance since it was more taxing on the environment to begin with?

The WTF
  • NYTimes wants to poison you, but not be sued. An entire paragraph is devoted to Andrea Reusing and her technique of infusing things with things such that new flavors are imparted.  Fine, but one of the subtle new flavors suggested is almond-scented cyanogen which apparently you can obtain by cracking open cherry pits. Cyanogen begets cyanide in the body, hence a second full paragraph follows up with a disclosure statement relinquishing the NYTimes from responsibility should you actually BE poisoned by Andrea Reusing's cream.  I mean, any part-time viewer of CSI/Matlock/Law and Order/Murder She Wrote knows that an almond scent on a dead body is indicative of cyanide poisoning (at least on tv, where everybody closely sniffs dead people)!
  • Or do they?  These contradictory paragraphs represent poor and unconvincing writing to be sure, but is there any legitimate value to the cautionary bottom-covering statement against cyanide in food?  The typical exposure scenario considered by toxicologists is the consumption of CN-high (1 mg/g) bitter cassava root in Africa which can cause neurological ataxia and goiters if improperly prepared.  Poisoning for real.  However!  Cyanide in the body is countered by amino acids and goiters are fixed with the ingestion of iodide (commonly found in table salt).  So though there aren't any articles detailing the specific concentration of hydrogen cyanide in cherry pit panna cotta, it is fairly safe to say that the American with a typical diet will be just fine here.

And as anecdotal evidence in this episode of you'll be fine if you eat that, I've eaten at least two apples a week (cores, seeds, and all), for the past several years.  I highly recommend this as a fiber source/peanut butter delivery system.

So I'll leave you with an experiment suggestion for you budding scientists: take hammer to cherry pits, warm with cream, strain and whip into something tasty.  Acidify, add coloring agent, perform simple colorimetric test.  Save the world, or laugh in NYTimes's face.  You can thank me with coauthorship.

    Monday, June 6, 2011

    Repurposing Leftovers: Trash Noodle Soup


    This dish was inspired by a lonely little container of rice noodles leftover from a Thai food order that I discovered in the fridge.  Noodles can sometimes be incorporated into stir fry situations if they're in good condition, but these were at least a week old and had congealed into a sort of stringy brick that would definitely not have held up to a frying pan.

    The solution?  A brothy soup to rehydrate the noodles into an edible form, while delivering a delicious and healthy dinner.  This isn't really a recipe so much as a rough ratio of ingredients and flavoring suggestings since I don't think I've ever made this the same way twice.  And as I write it out, it's not unlike fried rice in it's basic components and adaptability.  The version pictured is miso/hot and sour flavored with tofu, cabbage, edamame, and some rehydrated black fungus I bought in Chinatown ages ago, though this dish certainly doesn't need to have asian flavors or ingredients if that's not what you have on hand.

    Here are a few winning flavor combinations:
    • for bastardized minestrone: use 1 cup of white/kidney beans, 1/2 can of diced tomatoes in juice, a small chopped zucchini, fresh spinach, splash of red wine, oregano, basil, and finish with parmesean cheese
    • for simple, rustic, and healthy: sautee 1/2 a thinly sliced onion and 2 cloves of garlic before heating broth, use 1 cup of cooked chickpeas, a few handful of shredded green cabbage, and finish with a drizzle of tasty/expensive olive oil
    • for cheaters' thai: substitute half of the broth with a can of coconut milk, use shredded chicken or tofu chunks, mushrooms and red peppers, season with 1 teaspoon or so of green curry paste, fish sauce (start with 1/2 tablespoon), a lime wedge, and fresh cilantro
    • for quick and dirty pho: simmer broth with whole star anise and a cinnamon stick, serve hot broth over noodles and thinly sliced raw beef, and garnish with basil, mint, bean sprouts, and sriracha
    • for salty, hot, and sour (or the Chinatown special, a personal favorite): use rehydrated shiitake, black fungus, or seaweed, tofu chunks, frozen edamame pods, and green onions, seasoned with 2 tablespoons of miso paste mixed with an equal amount of warm water, a big squirt of Sriracha or other chile paste, and 1-2 tablespoons of vinegar

    The only caveat I would add is do make this in small batches since it's best when eaten right away.  If it sits, the noodles keep absorbing more and more moisture until they completely disintegrate to turn your soup into a gelatinous mass of starch and veg.  Quick-cooking rice noodles are especially susceptible to this.  If you wanted to do a noodle soup lunch the next day, just keep the broth/meat/veg mixture separate and heat it with the noodles right before you eat it.  I know, I know, that makes two separate containers to wash and that's the worst.  But isn't it worth it for a (very nearly) free lunch?



    Trash Noodle Soup

    Serves 2-4
    Total time: <10 minutes
    • 4 cups (1L) low-sodium stock or broth
    • 1 cup quick-cooking or pre-cooked protein (small chuncks of tofu, poached and shredded chicken, shrimp, and even white beans would work great)
    • 1-2 cups quick-cooking or pre-cooked vegetables, chopped (edamame, scallions, small broccoli/cauliflower florets, mushrooms, tomatoes, green beans, sprouts, cabbage, greens, or rehydrated random ingredients from Chinatown)
    • seasoning (see above)
    • 1-2 cups dry leftover noodles

    Heat broth to a boil while you chop and assemble the rest of your ingredients.  Add protein and veg to simmering broth and cook 5 minutes or until heated through.  Add seasoning to taste.

    When you're ready to consume: break up the noodle mass with your hands as much as possible and add to the broth.  Heat and stir until separated and resembling noodles, and serve immediately.

    Wednesday, May 4, 2011

    The Kale Thing, and My Most Requested Recipe



    One of the alternate blog names that I tossed around was Kale, Et cetera.  It was under serious consideration until the last minute when I decided that I would be too confused by the double "e" in the web address.

    But Kale, Et cetera would have been more than appropriate since it is the one single produce item that I always buy and have on hand.  Love love kale.  It's incredibly tasty, high in fiber and vitamins, and I try to work it into every meal I can.  And unlike spinach and chard which have higher water contents, it stands up well to cooking AND works great raw in a salad.

    Behold my go-to potluck dish.  Somehow, despite its lack of chocolate and bacon, I get more requests for this recipe than anything else.  Now, I prefer a potluck meal to a catered one any day of the week since I love seeing what people come up with as a reflection of their personality and background.  However, a disorganized free-for-all potluck lunch will, if unchecked, lead to 90% slow cooked meat dishes and extreme cakes.  Because of this, kale salad has become my go-to dish of choice to add a healthier alternative to the mix.  And in such situations it usually becomes a base for a fantastic trash salad featuring 5 of more different types of meat, if I'm lucky.

    Augmented with ricotta, a chicken leg, and leftover moussaka.

    You can use any type of kale you can find for this salad.  Tuscan/lacinato/dinosaur kale (the flat-leaf kind) has the nicest texture right off the bat, but it's often tough to find; the curly kind tastes just as good and softens right up if you let it sit dressed for 30 minutes so before serving.  The croutons are a personal touch since I'm always looking for ways to use up stale bread, and when is buttery crunchiness ever a bad thing?  Rounded out with dried fruit, this is delicious, easy, and hits all the bases.


    Kale Salad
    Adapted from Melissa Clark

    Makes one big salad (which is anywhere from 2-8 servings depending how hungry I am)
    Total time: 5-10 minutes (+15-20 for the croutons)
    • 1 bunch of kale
    • 3 tablespoons olive oil
    • zest and juice of one lemon (or two limes)
    • 2 teaspoons Dijon mustard
    • 1/2 clove of garlic, grated or finely minced
    • salt and pepper
    • 1/4 cup (1oz/30g) freshly grated hard cheese (parmesean, pecorino, or whatever is on sale)
    • big handful of dried cranberries, currants, or raisins (optional)
    • big handful of homemade croutons (optional, recipe below)

    Rinse and dry kale well.  Remove tough center ribs, slice leaves into very thin ribbons, and place in a large bowl.

    Combine olive oil, lemon juice and zest, mustard, garlic, and salt and pepper in a small jar and shake well.  Toss salad with dressing and cheese (it will keep for a few days in the fridge like this).

    Top with cranberries and croutons when ready to serve.

    Homemade Croutons

    Makes 5-6 cups (okay this is a lot, enough for 10-15 salads, but they keep well in an airtight container)
    Total time: 15-20 minutes (Active time 5 minutes)

    • 8oz (225g) stale bread (whatever kind you have, about 1/2 a baguette or 8ish slices)
    • 3 tablespoons melted butter
    • 3 tablespoons olive oil
    • 1-2 tablespoons Dijon mustard
    • 1 clove garlic, grated
    • 1 teaspoon dried thyme
    • salt and pepper to taste
    • 1/4 cup (1oz/30g) freshly grated hard cheese (parmesean, pecorino, or whatever is on sale) 

    Preheat oven to 400F/200C.

    Rip or slice bread into small cubes whatever size you like and place in a large bowl.  Mix butter, olive oil, mustard, garlic, and thyme in a small bowl and drizzle on the bread until evenly coated. 

    Spread the mixture out in a single layer on a parchment-lined cookie sheet and sprinkle on salt, pepper, and grated cheese to taste, adding a drizzle of olive oil if it looks dry.  Bake for 10-15 minutes until brown and crispy.  Store in an airtight container when cool.

    Friday, March 18, 2011

    10 Non-Financial Stock Tips

    I've said it before and I'll say it again: soup is my favorite thing to make for mid-week lunches and dinners.  Soups optimize the healthy/filling/cheap/delicious quadrangle better than any of my other top lunch picks, as illustrated by this handy visual aid:


    Most recipes call for some sort of flavored stock base, and while the store-bought liquid usually tastes great, it will typically run you about $2.99 per liter for the good stuff.  This can seriously add up if you're putting together a brothy soup and is an unreasonable expense if the rest of your ingredients are relatively cheap.  And the unhealthy-yet-still-tasty dry powder and cubes are usually loaded with questionable ingredients like MSG (even if it's labeled otherwise) and ungodly amounts of sodium.

    The best way around this, of course, is to make your own stock.  And for the most part you can do this using your cooking trash.  I like to save the plastic bags from carrots or celery to add food scraps from normal day-to-day cooking, keeping the bags in the freezer when they're not in use.  When you have about two or three full bags, you can add the frozen scraps to a large pot, fill until covered with water, add seasonings, simmer for a few hours, and you're in business.  The more soup you make, the more scraps you'll have; it makes for quite a nice little self-perpetuating cycle.

    But some scraps and seasonings are more equal than others when it comes to stock flavoring.  Here are some tips from my years of trial and error for creating the cheapest, most flavorful stock that requires the least amount of work and dishes:

    1.  Good food scraps

      Meat bones are great (even buffalo wing remnants!) and are sold very cheaply at the butcher counter.  Good veg include onion peels, carrot ends and skin, celery ends and wilted pieces (including the leafy center), green parts and ends of leeks, spring onions, rinsed old mushrooms, stems of fresh herbs, the peel and knobby bits from fresh ginger, garlic, and the rinds of Parmesan or other hard cheese.

    2.  Bad food scraps

     Squash and citrus peels are very bitter, all cruciferous vegetables taste rancid and smell like farts when you cook them for a long time, and anything with a high water content will completely disintegrate and discolor the stock (think spinach, lettuce, tomatoes, zucchini).

    Most of these ingredients make for a great soup, but do not hold up well to long cooking.  Except the citrus peels of course.  Still not sure why I thought that was a good idea.



    3.  Good seasonings

    A couch surfing hippie once taught me that a splash of vinegar will really extract the maximum amount of flavor from your stock.  Actually I think he referred to magic collagen juju and not flavor specifically, but according to the internet, this isn't a completely baseless idea.

    Whole spices will also add great flavor to the liquid (about 1/2-1 teaspoon of each will do); for maximum benefit, smash the spices using the flat side of a knife before adding them to the pot.  I always use black peppercorns, cloves (secret stock ingredient!), and bay leaves.  Dried chiles, cinnamon sticks, fennel seed, star anise, and coriander seed are also great additions. 

    4.  Bad seasonings 

    Ground spices and crumbled, dried herbs will add great flavor, but will also make your stock look dirty and give it a grittier texture since the small bits can't be filtered out unless you want to stuff around with multiple layers of cheesecloth or muslin and make a big mess.  Depending on the type of soup you want to make, this might not matter (eg. this would be fine for a thicker dark-colored soup).  I certainly agree with the Guardian: "personally, I reckon life's too short for consommés."

    5.  The question of salt. 

    I never add much salt to the stock itself, only to the dish I use it in, tasting as I go.  This is totally a personal preference, but I think it's much easier to control this way and you don't have to worry about the liquid over-reducing.  It's really easy to let sodium levels get completely out of hand when making soup, especially when using canned ingredients.  See Tip 10 regarding semantics and the non-necessity of preparing stock to be enjoyed on its own.

    6.  Consider your end goal.  

    I have made the mistake before of putting absolutely every scrap and seasoning I could find in the stock pot.  The result was something sort of bitter, sort of spicy with Asian flavors, and sort of cheesy.  Not recommended.  But some combinations that do make sense:

    -All-purpose flavor base: Stick with the meat and onion/carrot/celery/leek/parsley scraps, and season with garlic, black peppercorns, whole cloves, and bay leaves.
    -For a potato or cream-based soup: Add cheese rinds and fresh dill stems.
    -For chili or other bean stew: Add dried chiles, coriander and cumin seeds, and fresh coriander and oregano stems.
    -For braising meat: Add fennel seeds, star anise, fresh rosemary and thyme stems.
    -For an Asian flavor base:  Add the hard unusable parts of lemongrass stems, dried chiles, fresh ginger peels, star anise, and fresh coriander stems.



    7.  To brown or not to brown?

    Some stock recipes suggest roasting or sautéing the vegetables and bones to brown them and generally develop a more complex flavor before adding water.  I'm definitely opposed to roasting on the basis that it creates another dirty dish (and cleaning roasting pans is the worst), and I'm also opposed to using fresh ingredients instead of scraps to make a broth.  Most soup recipes start off with sweating onions or some such anyway, why do it twice and why discard perfectly good vegetables?

    Having tried it, I can say that the flavor difference is not measurable .  I am however intrigued by the easy-sounding German technique of slicing an onion in half and browning it before making stock.  Warrants experimentation. 

    8.  Storage

    The stock has to cool completely before refrigerating, so I will usually leave the covered pot out overnight to come to room temperature and strain and containerize in the morning (I've also forgotten and left veg stock out at room temperature for several days - still fine).  One-liter reused yogurt or clear takeaway containers are my favorite storage units and they conveniently hold the same amount as the cartons in the supermarket. 

    I've never found a need for piddly plastic baggies or ice cube trays as recommended by some that expose the stock to the rest of your freezer's smells.  Need a quick defrost?  Microwave it for a minute to loosen the frozen cylinder and dump the rest into your soup pot.  The burner will do the work for you.

    9.  Meat means more work.

    Stock is a great use for your leftover carcasses from a Sunday roast, but the fattiness will add an extra step to the process since, unlike vegetable stock, you can't just strain the liquid and stick it in the freezer.  Return the strained liquid back to the pot and stick it in the refrigerator for a few hours to cool.  A white layer will solidify on the top that you can easily remove to de-fat the stock before freezing or using.  If you want to go really full circle, you can use the fat in any number of other delicious recipes.

    10.  A note on semantics

    The Kitchn does a great job at summing up the difference between broth and stock.  Basically broth is something that you can eat on its own with rich flavors, seasonings, and meat (not just the bones) while stock is more of a concentrated base on which to build a dish.  Many broth recipes call for fresh meats and veg which you cook to extract flavor and then discard, which, like the browned components in Tip 7, seems to me like a waste of perfectly good soup ingredients.  So use the bits you discard anyway to make stock, then add other ingredients and seasoning to finish the soup.  It's just plain efficient.


    Want to give it a shot?  Here are some of my favorite stock-based recipes on the internet:

    Carrot, Kumara, and Ginger Soup

    Curried Split-Pea Soup

    Super Delicious Zuppa Toscana

    Hot and Sour Soup with Ginger

    French Onion Soup

    Sunday, February 27, 2011

    I'm Okay, the Cheese is Okay



    Speaking of habitual if unnecessary purchases, there are certain stores (Whole Foods, Garden of Eden, the evil temptresses) that I just can't enter without buying cheese.  And cheese experimentation is very appealing when you can get small triangles for < $4 without committing to an entire pound. 

    Unfortunately sometimes this leads to 10 or more varieties in the cheese drawer which can be too much for even an experienced fridge inventorier to manage alone.  As a consequence, I have become somewhat of an expert on the "can I eat this?" field of cheese study which specifically addresses the question of mold.

    Now, some among us always err on the side of caution when it comes to food safety, but quite frankly first world inhabitants are getting too soft these days as a result of hyperhygienicity.  After all what's the worst that can happen?  The deaths that occur from cheese-based food poisoning seem to be caused entirely by contamination at the source (from the factory or raw milk), not due to anything acquired by lingering in the fridge.  Your gut flora will be stronger for the effort.

    The table below from the Mayo Clinic, which summarizes some USDA/FDA information, is particularly helpful when encountering a can I eat this? cheese-based dilemma.  Cheese ripens from the outside in (unless engineered otherwise), so unsavory molds and harmful bacteria are more likely to hang out on the surface of the cheese which is directly exposed to air and moisture.  This means that your shredded/crumbled/soft/porous cheeses are much more susceptible to spoilage than hard cheeses which are kept in their block or wedge shapes, so don't break up the cheese until you're ready to use it.  I've maintained wedges of hard pecorino romano and asiago cheese in my fridge for close to a year with no ill effects.  Seriously.

    So don't be afraid of mold!  Removing the mold from cheese is known as "facing" and can be done by slicing or scraping away the offending areas of hard cheese blocks with distinct blue/white/green discoloration.  This process returns your cheese to it's 100% edible state, ready for all kinds of inglorious consumption.

    Gruyere, returned to it's original glory.

    By the time freshly made cheeses in the "do not eat" column like ricotta, fresh mozzarella, and cottage cheese even get moldy, they are far beyond being edible anyway.  When in doubt, just taste it and you'll know pretty quickly whether you can eat it or not (ie anything sewagey, sour, or that otherwise makes your tongue tingle in the bad way should be a no go).


    Moldy cheese? What you should do.
    Type of cheese Do not eat — discard Safe to eat — after mold is removed
    Any shredded, crumbled or sliced cheese
    X
    American
    X
    Asiago
    X
    Baby Swiss
    X
    Blue cheese
    X
    Brie
    X
    Camembert
    X
    Cheddar
    X
    Chevre
    X
    Colby
    X
    Cottage cheese
    X
    Cream cheese
    X
    Feta
    X
    Gorgonzola
    X
    Gruyere
    X
    Monterey Jack
    X
    Mozzarella
    X
    Muenster
    X
    Neufchatel
    X
    Parmesan
    X
    Ricotta
    X
    Romano
    X
    Roquefort
    X
    Stilton
    X
    Swiss
    X


    As an addendum, I have removed mold from both cream cheese and aged mozzarella and lived to tell the tale.  I've also never actually seen mold grow on feta, Gorgonzola, blue, Brie, or Camembert cheeses, but am not sure if this speaks more to the hardiness of these cheeses or my rate of consumption.

    Thursday, January 20, 2011

    Food Waste, an Introductory Rant

     
    An American family of four's average monthly food waste.  Via The New York Times.
    

    Food waste.  My number one king of kings pet peeve above all others.  I actually don't even know if I have any other ticks, except maybe the anthropomorphizing of diseases in pharmaceutical commercials. 

    My most depressing days are when I have to clean out the fridge to make room for beer or something, only to realize that "ugh, I cannot believe I forgot about those jalapeno peppers," or "how DID that half empty can of tomato paste disappear behind the pickles for so long without me noticing?"  Yes, occasionally things slip by me, but I like to think that one of my more remarkable qualities is my constant mental inventory and indefatigable awareness of refrigerator and pantry contents.  I'm certain that this has irritated every single past and present roommate of mine.

    I've been a bit riled up about this issue lately since reading reports which state that Americans throw away around 30-40% of all food just at the consumer level.  Not even talking about restaurants or grocery stores which are even more wasteful and profit-driven.

    What's the reason for this?  For starters, America produces enough food for everyone to enjoy 3,800 calories per person per day, which is close to twice what we actually need.  Increasing demand begets an increasing supply, and with prices and subsidies being what they are, we can all probably afford to be at least a little picky about what we will and won't consume. 

    But putting perfectly good food into the waste stream is a habit that can literally throw away thousands of dollars every year, not to mention the wasted energy expended during production and transportation.  If America just cut its food waste in half it would lessen our total impact to the environment (in reduced emissions, landfill use, soil depletion, pesticides and fertilizers) by 25%.  That statistic just blows me away.

    Fortunately it's becoming somewhat trendy these days to rally against wasting food as what I imagine to be part of a throwback to old timey DIY that's making a resurgence with the more hip among us.  Food waste is of course an exclusive problem of the post-industrialized first world, with the UK, Japan, and US being the worst offenders.  Were our great-great-grandparents buying boneless skinless antibiotic enormous chicken breasts in styrofoam packages?  No, animals were raised and slaughtered locally with a great amount of effort so it was only natural that all parts would be put to good use.  This is an attitude which is virtually nonexistent in our society where it's easier to buy in bulk again and again than to stop and think about what's actually needed.  Celebrity chefs in the UK seem to be starting the conversation about increasing waste awareness, though I'm still waiting to see the Food Network jump on board.  With the rising popularity of excess-based shows, I'm not holding my breath.

    I would say that my family members are among the original champions of this cause.  Some of my earliest memories involve devouring discolored chocolates or expired chips at my grandparents' house, or setting aside that jug of milk for Dad because it's justthisside of funky for everyone else.  My little sister told me once that her roommates always waited until she wasn't home to clean out the fridge to avoid her glaring consternation; that was a proud proud day.

    This family tradition of sorts saves us untold amounts of money, and also challenges our meal planning creativity to use whatever is available without excess trips to the store.  I should also mention that though the USDA would probably frown on some of my methods, my immune system is iron clad and I've never ever had a case of food poisoning.  I don't think that these two points are unrelated.

    I could go on and on.  There really are no downsides to minimizing waste, food or otherwise.